All in one bags have proven to be the easiest way to grow mushrooms at home, but you still may be wondering.. "How do I use one of those?" Well, this article will help guide you through the process from Inoculation to harvest!
What you'll need :
- Our All in One Grow Bag
- 70% isopropyl Alcohol
- Nitrile gloves & Face mask (optional but highly recommend)
- A clean area to work in
And most importantly your genetics we recommend using Liquid Culture over a Multi-Spore Syringe. We've partnered with a few trusted affiliates to make it easy to find quality products!
Innoculation
Clean your work area with 70% isopropyl alcohol (80–90% will evaporate too quickly to kill bacteria, mold, or spores).
Apply nitrile gloves as well as your face mask, if available.
Use the included alcohol wipe to wipe down the bag, paying extra attention to the self-healing injection port. Leave the wipe over the injection port until you're ready to inoculate.
Spray your hands as well as the packaging of your choice of liquid culture (LC) or Multi-Spore Syringe (MSS). You can read about the differences in our "MSS vs. LC" post by clicking the hyperlink provided.
Remove the alcohol wipe from the injection port. Take your syringe from the package. In one fluid motion, remove the cap and apply the syringe needle by twisting it onto the lever lock, leaving the cap over your needle. When you're ready, take the cap off the needle and quickly inject your syringe into the bag.
Use 1cc(mL) per lb. A 5lb bag will use 5ccs. You can inject the syringe into the same spot, or you can move the needle in a circular motion as you're pushing the plunger down. Some people will opt to use more LC, even using the entire thing in one bag which is perfectly fine but we would urge against doing this with a MSS (Multi-spore syringe)
Feel free to cover the injection port with tape as an extra precaution, the port is self healing but there's no such thing as being too clean when it comes to growing mushrooms.
Colonization
Once you've inoculated your bag, the hard part begins: the wait. (DO NOT open or cut your bag until it's FULLY colonized!)
Colonization temperatures should be somewhere around 70°F, no higher than 80°F. The colder it is, the longer it will take.
Give your bag 3 days to 2 weeks, depending on the genetics and whether you've used liquid culture or spores. Spores generally take longer. Soon you will start to see white forming in the bag; this is the magical mycelium!
Once the bag has become 10–30% white, it's time for a break and a shake! To do this, squeeze and break up all the white clumps to distribute them throughout the bag. Make sure to mix well and flatten the surface. A smooth surface is very important to get a great pinset. You can do an additional break and shake at 50%. Do not shake a third time; this will delay pinning.
Fruiting
Now that your bag is fully white, you have two options. Some will opt to wait until they see pins before adding "FAE" (Fresh Air Exchange). You can also start adding fresh air the moment your bag is completely colonized. Make sure there are no uncolonized areas, or else fresh air can cause contaminants to feast on your hard work. Adding fresh air will kickstart your fruiting conditions. You will also want to lower your temperatures slightly. 68°F to 75°F. Some mushrooms will require different temperatures, so it's important to ask your genetics supplier what they recommend for your species or cultigen.You have multiple options to add FAE.
Option 1: Cut off the top two corners of your bag. This is the easiest way and requires little effort.
Option 2: Cut the top completely off to displace CO2, then fold the top back over, closing loosely with a paperclip or bag clip. This requires more effort, but being able to control when you add fresh air and humidity is very helpful. It is suggested that you only fan or mist when needed. Tiny water droplets on the sides of the bag or on the surface of your cake is what you should aim for. You do not want ANY standing water.
Option 3: This is our preferred method, but it will require micropore tape, or "paper tape," commonly found near bandages in most shops. To start, cut the top off the bag just like "Step 2," and then you will also cut a hole in the shape of a rectangle about 2–3 inches above the substrate level. The hole should be about 1/4 inch tall and 2 inches wide. Cover the hole with micropore tape and repeat on the opposite side of the bag; this time, cut the hole an inch lower than your first one. Be sure not to put this hole too close to the substrate level. No less than 1 inch above. Doing this gives you the option of passive fresh air exchange as well as the ability to fan and mist if needed. Your mushrooms will give you signs of low fresh air exchange, such as "fuzzy feet." (The base of your mushrooms will appear fuzzy, similar to cotton.) Or, your mushrooms will grow long and skinny. Fat short mushrooms can be caused by too much or too little moisture, heat, and genetics, which will also contribute to some funky-looking mushrooms.
Please note different climate zones, and time of year may affect how these different options will work because relative humidity and temperatures can fluctuate. Practice makes perfect.
Fresh Air and Misting:
Most people will tell you to mist and fan every day, this is not necessary. Simply introduce your fresh air and check it once a day for the humidity. Our bags are brought to the correct field capacity this way they hold moisture better and it's less work for you. What you're looking for is condensation on the sides of the bag and little tiny droplets on the surface of your substrate. You DO NOT want any puddles of water, use a clean paper towel to soak up any excess water puddles. Only mist when your bag looks like it can use it. Don't base it off a time schedule.
Harvest as soon as the veil breaks. You can harvest your mushrooms one at a time or all at once; keep in mind that you will need to dehydrate them immediately. Dehydrate at 140°F until cracker dry; you do not want any give when you try to squeeze them. They should feel solid.
